Feb 10 2025
French cuisine is something of a paradox. It is known for its delicate nature and yet it frequently explodes with bold flavours. But the main thread that gives French cuisine its identity, is that almost everything is tied to history. That is never better demonstrated than when considering French cheese, and if you want a lesson in how the French are committed to historical legacies in their food, then you should read about the development of Munster cheese.
One of the best things about history is when stories become so fabled and mythical that people don’t know the real origin of the tale. And it almost doesn’t matter. Munster cheese is so delicious and indulgent that it gives people licence to let their imaginations go for a wander. So there is conjecture that this strong and creamy pasteurised cow’s milk cheese dates back to the 9th century, and yet there isn’t concrete evidence of the current production and maturing techniques being adopted until the 14th century. In reality, who cares about the dates as long as we are wedded to the artisan practices that first crafted this genius?
Well history is important, so let’s go with what we know. Munster cheese is still made today in the areas either side of the Vosges mountains, namely the Alsace and Lorraine regions of Eastern France, close to the German and Swiss borders. This has always been the case, certainly since around 1371, when there is evidence of the Admodiation – an area at the top of the Vosges mountains – being occupied by cattle herds between May and September. Outside of these times the cattle were returned to the valleys and the herdsmen paid fees to landowners to use the summer pastures. The herdsmen were known as serfs, and had to settle these debts using cheese and butter as currency, and Munster was one of very few cheeses still used in this way right up until the 17th century.
Munster is named after the Alsation town in which it was first made, and where it was conserved in monk’s cellars, and it is also known as Munster-Géromé, which comes from the name of the town of Gérardmer, where the cheese was marketed in these early times. Fast forward to the 21st century and Munster’s PDO and AOC status means that in the EU, the origin and process of making Munster cheese is fiercely protected, with rigorously preserved procedures ensuring Munster retains its place amongst the pillars of French culture and cuisine.
These production processes can only use milk sourced from cattle in a limited area of the Vosges region, and quality control procedures mimic the conditions of the damp monk’s cellars from the Middle Ages. Depending on the size of the cheese cylinder, it can take between five weeks and three months to mature the cheese, but every couple of days it is still washed in a red brine ferment, which adds moisture, develops the bacteria which gives Munster its bold taste and aroma and also produces the distinctive rind colour which is one of the many characteristics which helps Munster stand out from the crowd.
Munster retains the rustic qualities which are the hallmark of so much French cuisine, with processes still insisting that locally, it is displayed and sold unwrapped on a bed of straw where possible. And yet the taste, texture and appearance remains the same after all these years; an ivory-coloured cheese with a smooth and creamy texture that is easy to spread. A pungent aroma promises intense flavours with a hint of sweetness, and this explodes when Munster cheese is melted.
In French cuisine, Munster is known for its versatility, appearing as a staple ingredient of many great recipes, but also front and centre of a classic French cheeseboard. Munster can be used melted on potatoes, on burgers and in sandwiches, and also added to soups, pasta sauces, in gratins, quiches and tarts. Munster’s popularity comes from its inherent qualities, but also in how it can be used in almost anything. That’s why Munster is ingrained in the culture of French cuisine, and that’s why, all these years later, history matters.
For more information about where to source the best Munster cheese, you can contact our experts at Sodiaal.
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